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1790, a dress in the “patriotique” style of red, white, and blue. Sash shows Greco-Roman influence. Note striped shoes.
A colored engraving of a portrait of Madame Royale and Louis Joseph de France by Elisabeth Vigee-Lebrun.
[source: Vigee Le Brun by Haldane MacFall]
Stock-jobber of the Palais Royal, at the public school, he is dressed in a morning Coat and coiffed with a Jockey Hat. - Galerie des Modes, 58e Cahier, 5e Figure
Both white & empire: 1 covered w/ tiny tambour embroidered dots & sprigs, wide hem insert in serpentine foliage & blossom pattern, cross-over bodice, apron front & long sleeves, L 53”, (several holes & mends); 1 covered w/ small boteh-like embroidered motifs, short puff sleeves, back draw-strings, L 53”, (many holes & large mends) both fair.
Moss green silk taffetas pelisse with sky blue silk lining and Point de Bruxelles lace collar, French or English, ca. 1811. Pumpkin-colored cashmere shawl.
Napoleon and the Empire of Fashion
The Visit Returned
Pendant, 19th Century
Paul Delaroche, Napoleon in his study, 1841, Bordeaux, 34x25,8 cm, oil on canvas
The gesture that one can see on this image by Delaroche is often refered to as “typical” for Napoleon I. It was said that he suffered from bad stomach pain and that that’s the reason for putting his hand into the waistcoat. As funny as it is to think of him as being grumpy with bellyache it’s not true.
The “hand in the waistcoat” actually belongs to the political iconography and is a sign of rhetorical strength. It comes from the ancient Roman rhetorical doctrine and stresses the ability of the speaker to make his point without depending on gesture. Napoleon adapted this ‘symbol’ the moment he left his military position and became Consul to show his skills as a politician.
I just thought it was because his pants didn’t have pockets.
Robe à l’anglaise | ca. 1780 | Colonial Williamsburg
This dress is cotton with silk embroidery - which just goes to show how spectacular an “average” material can become.
“Kontusz (from Polish language; plural kontusze; also spelled in English language as Kontush or Kuntush from Ukrainian: Кунтуш) (originally Hungarian Köntösis - robe) - a type of outer garment worn by the Hungarian, Polish, Belarusian, Lithuanian and Ukrainian male nobility (szlachta). It became popular in the 16th century and came to the lands that were under Polish-Lithuanian Commonwealth rule via Hungary from Turkey. In the 17th century, worn over an inner garment (żupan), the kontusz became a notable element of male Polish national and Ukrainian cossack attire.
The kontusz was a long robe, usually reaching to below the knees, with a set of decorative buttons down the front. The sleeves were long and loose, on hot days worn untied, thrown on the back. In winter a fur lining could be attached to the kontusz, or a delia worn over it. The kontusz was usually of a vivid colour, and the lining was of a contrasting hue. The kontusz was tied with a long, wide sash called a pas kontuszowy. The kontusz was more of a decorative garment than a useful one. Tradition states that the first kontusze were worn by szlachta who captured them from Ottomans to display as loot. Throwing kontusz sleeves on one’s back and stroking one’s mustache was considered to be a signal of readiness for a fight.
In 1776, Sejm deputies from different voivodeships of Poland were obliged to wear different coloured żupany and kontusze denoting their voivodeships. In Poland, kontusz was worn mainly by the nobility, but it was a common part of Zaporozhian cossack attire.” (source)
Bodice and petticoat ca. 1765
From the Kent State University Museum on Pinterest
Portrait of Napoleon Bonaparte, bust length
French School, late 18th century
Chevau-léger de Berg,1808.
CAVALIERS DES GUERRES NAPOLEONIENNES N° 110,p.5. my scan